The Kodiak Island Archipelago is located in
the Gulf of Alaska about 30 miles across Shelikof
Strait, and 252 air miles southwest of Anchorage.
The island group is approximately 177 miles long
and 67 miles across, extending from the Barren
Islands on the north, to Chirikof Island and the
Semidi Islands group on the south. The Archipelago
encompasses roughly 5,000 square miles of land,
no point of which is more than 15 miles from the
sea. Kodiak Island's 3,588 square miles make it
the second largest island in the United States
(only the island of Hawaii is larger). The second
largest island of the archipelago is Afognak,
located north of Kodiak Island. The Kodiak Island
Borough includes all of the archipelago and the
Shelikof Strait shore-side lands of Katmai National
Park. Kodiak Island consists primarily of mountainous
terrain, with the ridge of the mountains running
northeast-southwest. Although several peaks are
greater than 4,000 feet, most range between 3,000
and 4,000 feet. About 40 small cirque glaciers
(none greater than 2 miles) are evident along
the main divide. Numerous hanging valleys feed
into the main canyons radiating from the central
divide. The uplands are drained by relatively
short, swift, clear mountain streams.
The Barren Islands to the north of Shuyak Island are primarily rocky
scapes. Tugidak Island on the south is relatively flat and supports
extensive areas of wet and moist tundra. The outlying islands south
of the Trinity Islands are lower in elevation than Kodiak Island and
support more limited vegetation growth.
From Shuyak Island to northeastern Kodiak Island, stands of Sitka spruce
dominate land from shore to the treeline. These stands extend south
to a general northwest-southeast dividing line running from Kupreanof
Peninsula to Cape Chiniak. Southwest Kodiak Island is relatively flat
and supports extensive areas of wet and moist tundra.
Exposed bedrock and shallow soils prevail along the 2500-mile rugged
coastline. Northwest Kodiak shows effects of glaciation, with long,
narrow fjords and U-shaped valleys. These lie perpendicular to the mountains
and the geologic fault lines. Rivers typically enter at the heads of
the fjords and are backed by extensive flat lands. The east and southeast
coasts of the Archipelago are characterized by shorter, wider estuarine
embayments. Southwest Kodiak Island and the Trinity Islands tend toward
long, continuous shorelines with few bays. Most of the sandy beaches
occur on the west coast of Kodiak Island and the Trinity Islands. Specific
geographic features within the Kodiak Island Borough include: offshore
areas; estuaries; lagoons; wetlands and tidelands; rocky islands and
sea-cliffs; exposed high-energy coasts; rivers, streams, and lakes;
and important upland areas.
Offshore Areas
Offshore areas include submerged lands and waters beyond mean lower
low water to the limit of Kodiak Island Borough. Because of the extensive
estuarine system of the Borough, offshore areas are those outside the
headlands of the estuaries. Living resources are abundant in the Borough's
offshore area. Dominant fauna include shellfish, finfish, marine mammals,
and marine birds. Kelp and other macroalgal beds provide habitat for
sea otters, spawning herring, and juvenile fish. They are important
feeding areas for waterfowl and marine birds, and provide valuable primary
production exported as algal drift, which is assimilated elsewhere in
the marine ecosystem.
Estuaries
In the borough, most nearshore marine waters are designated as estuarine
because of their extensive dilution by fresh water. Estuarine areas
are considered to extend from headland to headland of bays, inlets,
and fjords. Well-developed delta systems, apparently dominated by tidal
action, lie at the head of most Kodiak fjords. Kodiak estuarine areas
are highly productive. The complexity of the submarine topography and
sediments and good algae growth, including extensive kelp beds, provide
basic nutrients and diverse habitat to support herbivore and carnivore
populations. In addition, many marine finfish and shellfish utilize
the estuarine areas during larval and juvenile stages of development.
Lagoons
Lagoons are most prevalent in the south and southwestern portions of
the Archipelago. Unlike other estuarine systems of the Islands, lagoons
included in this habitat are shallow and tend to have sandy or flat
shorelines.
Wetlands and Tideflats
The presence of coastal tidelands surrounding the Kodiak Archipelago
is relatively low; however, the actual amount of habitat varies by region.
Kodiak and Afognak Islands have very limited tideflat wetland complexes.
Extensive tideflat-wetland complexes usually occur only at the heads
of bays or around lagoons on these islands. In addition to these saltwater
habitats, large inland wetlands occur in the Karluk River and Ayakulik
River drainages in southwestern Kodiak. In sharp contrast to the availability
of these habitat types on Kodiak and Afognak Islands, shorelines around
the Trinity Islands contain extensive tideflats, and most of the Tugidak
Island mainland is wetland habitat. Tideflat-wetland complexes provide
valuable habitat for birds and marine mammals, particularly when used
in combination with adjacent waters. In addition, the tideflat areas,
especially those that are composed of sandy beaches, provide habitat
for abundant clam and polychaete populations.
Rocky Islands and Seacliffs
Rocky islands generally have rock or cliff-lined shorelines. Occasionally
rocky islands have tundra-vegetated interiors or areas along their coasts
that are fairly level. This habitat category applies to most of the
offshore islands. Along the coast of the major islands, however, this
habitat type is limited to those shores with vertical cliffs. Offshore
rocky islands and seacliffs are particularly important to marine mammals
and marine birds as haulout and nesting sites. Many of these sites are
along the east coast of Kodiak Island in the vicinity of Chiniak and
Ugak Bays. The remaining sites are distributed around the archipelago
and along the shoreline on the west side of Shelikof Strait.
Exposed High-Energy Coasts
Exposed bedrock shores comprise approximately 50 percent of Kodiak
and Afognak Islands, and a large percentage of the Alaska Peninsula
coastline on the west side of Shelikof Strait. Almost 90 percent of
the Barren Islands are exposed bedrock. Exposed bedrock shores usually
have moderate to steep gradients. Exposed high-energy coasts provide
habitat for a variety of marine littoral-zone flora and fauna, which
in turn are used by important fish and wildlife resources. In addition,
high-energy coasts provide feeding and nesting habitat for bird species
and a food source and resting habitat for marine mammals.
Rivers, Streams, and Lakes
The largest lakes and longest rivers within the Borough are located
in southwest Kodiak Island. Major southwest lakes include Karluk, Frazer,
Red, Akalura, and South Olga lakes. Other important lake systems on
Kodiak Island, such as Spiridon, Little River, Uganik, Terror, Buskin,
and Lake Rose Tead, are significantly smaller. Small pothole and high
mountain lakes are also prevalent. Pothole lakes are generally found
along the Upper Ayakulik River, between Olga Bay and the ocean, at the
mid-reach of the Karluk River, on the Lower Aluilik Peninsula, and throughout
Tugidak Island. Pothole lakes are also prevalent in the north and northeast
sections of Afognak Island and on Shuyak Island. Major lakes on Afognak
Island include: Selief Lake, Afognak Lake, Big and Little Kitoi Lakes,
Pauls, Laura, and Gretchen Lakes, Portage Lake, Little Waterfall Lake,
Hidden Lake, and Upper and Lower Melina Lakes. Due to the steep topography
of the Aleutian Range mountains on the west side of Shelikof Strait,
there are few lakes located in that area of the Kodiak Island Borough.
With the exception of the Ayakulik and Karluk rivers in southwest Kodiak
Island, rivers in the archipelago tend to be short and steep, often
originating in small mountain lakes or small glaciers. Rivers, streams,
and lakes provide critical aquatic habitat for resident and anadromous
fish populations. In addition, they support summer and winter activities
of bird and mammal populations, particularly waterfowl, bear, beaver,
and land otters. Rivers and streams are the conduit for the freshwater
component of estuarine systems, and serve as a valuable link between
upland and marine environments.
Uplands
The archipelago uplands can be subdivided into four general areas based
primarily on vegetative and terrain features. These areas are; (1) north
of Kodiak Island, (2) the major portion of Kodiak Island, (3) southwest
of Kodiak Island, lower Aliulik Peninsula, and the Trinity Islands,
and (4) the Alaska Peninsula coastline west of Shelikof Strait. The
first category, characterized by well-developed stands of mature Sitka
spruce, includes Shuyak, Afognak, Raspberry, Whale, Spruce, and Marmot
Islands.
The major portion of Kodiak Island forms the second category of uplands.
Upland habitat distributions are closely related to differences in elevation.
At very high elevations, unconsolidated material is generally absent.
Below the peaks, mountainous areas have typical alpine vegetation. Steep
mountains below 3,000 feet have dense shrub and ground cover. Lower
slopes and valley floors are covered by sand and gravel of glacial origin,
valley alluvium, alluvial fans, talus deposits, and ash from the 1912
eruption of Mt. Katmai. Cottonwood and occasionally Kenai birch, are
common stands along the lower reaches of major drainages. The third
region includes southwest Kodiak Island and the Trinity Islands. This
region escaped glaciation and is vegetatively and topographically different
from the rest of the Kodiak Archipelago. Plants are uniquely similar
to species found in the Alaskan Arctic and unlike those found elsewhere
in the Archipelago. The area is characterized by extensive moist and
wet tundra surrounded by rounded low hills. The upland terrain along
the west side of Shelikof Strait is dominated by the northeast-southwest
trending mountains of the Aleutian Range. The short, steep-gradient
drainages to the Gulf of Alaska are generally situated in steep valleys
with cottonwood stands along the stream courses. At higher elevations,
the vegetation is characteristic alpine tundra and bare rock and soil.
Land Use and Ownership
Borough Lands
The Kodiak Island Borough owns roughly 56,500 acres of land within
the Borough. Most of this land was originally obtained and selected
under municipal entitlement from the State of Alaska; the configuration
of other parcels are the result of land trades with the State. Over
50 percent of Borough land is located on Shuyak Island and Raspberry
Island; Ugak Bay and Hidden Basin also include numerous pockets that
total a sizeable portion of Borough land acreage. Lease and disposal
of Borough lands are subject to approval by the Borough Assembly. The
Kodiak Island Borough zoning ordinance contains 18 zoning districts:
Watershed (W); Wildlife Habitat (WH), Natural Use Lands (NU); Conservation
(C); Rural Development (RD); Rural Residential (RR); Rural Residential
One (RR1); Rural Residential Two (RR2); Single Family Residential (R1);
Two Family Residential (R2); Multi-Family Residential (R3); Business
(B); Rural Neighborhood Commercial (RNC); Urban Neighborhood Commercial
(UNC); Retail Business (RB); Light Industrial (LI); Industrial (I);
and Public Use Lands (PL). Recreational land use includes 11 municipal
parks totaling 60 acres in size.
State Lands
The most significant State lands in the Borough are the vast tidelands.
The State does not own a significant amount of upland area in the Borough.
Most State uplands are in the northeast part of the Borough near the
City of Kodiak and south around Ugak Bay to Dangerous Cape. State land
selections are now complete in the Borough and new additions to state
ownership are not likely. The Alaska Department of Natural Resources
(DNR) manages most state land in the Borough. A few areas have had management
authority transferred to other State agencies. The Alaska Department
of Transportation and Public Facilities manages roads and airport facilities,
the Alaska Department of Fish and Game (ADF&G) manages the Tugidak
Island Critical Habitat Area and the Division of State Parks within
DNR manages state park lands. State parks accessible by road include:
Fort Abercrombie, Buskin River and Pasagshak State Recreation Sites.
A large portion of Shuyak Island is an undeveloped state park accessible
only by water or air. The newest State park in the borough is located
on the northern coast of Afognak Island. In total, 5 state parks throughout
Kodiak Island comprise 56,448 acres.
Federal Lands
Much of the Borough contains land managed by federal authorities. The
major federal land owner in the Borough is the U.S. Fish and Wildlife
Service (USFWS). USFWS manages the Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge (KNWR),
which comprises 1.8 million acres of the archipelago, the Becharof and
Alaska Peninsula National Wildlife Refuge (APNWR), and the Alaska Maritime
National Wildlife Refuge (AMNWR). The USFWS is the largest single land
owner in the Borough. The Borough boundary on the west, across Shelikof
Strait, includes a portion of Katmai National Park managed by the Department
of the Interior, National Park Service. The refuges are managed as multiple
use areas and allow a wide variety of uses that do not interfere with
the primary purpose of each refuge. The U.S. Coast Guard (USCG), Department
of Transportation, manages several important facilities on Kodiak Island.
The U.S. Coast Guard Support Center Kodiak, which is located near the
Kodiak urban area, contains over 21,000 acres. The Support Center provides
infrastructure to support several Coast Guard Cutters, Air Station Kodiak,
Communications Station Kodiak, Loran Station Kodiak, Electronic Support
Unit Kodiak, North Pacific Fisheries Training Center, Marine Safety
Detachment Kodiak, plus several other Coast Guard detachments. The U.S.
Navy SEAL (Sea, Air, Land Special Operations) Cold Weather Training
Detachment is housed on the Support Center's facilities at Spruce Cape.
Other tenants located on the Support Center's main complex include the
FAA, NOAA, the National Weather Service, and the National Marine Fisheries
Service. The Support Center contains a full range of facilities and
land uses usually associated with a major urban area, including recreational,
residential, institutional, and commercial. The uses of land on the
Support Center and other federal facilities are generally exempt from
local regulation. However, the uses are subject to federal requirements
such as the National Environmental Policy Act (NEPA) and other environmental
laws such as the Clean Air Act, Clean Water Act, and Resource Conservation
and Recovery Act. A portion of the scattered small rural parcels in
the Borough are federal trust lands. Except for Native Allotments and
Federal Townsite lots, no other federal trust lands, such as Indian
reservations, exist in the Borough. These parcels are held in trust
by the federal government in the name of the owner. The activities on
the parcel and any transfer of title must be approved by the Bureau
of Indian Affairs (BIA). Since they are federal trust lands, the parcels
are exempt from most local and state regulations, as well as taxation,
until ownership is transferred. Federal environmental laws such as NEPA
and the Clean Air and Water Acts do apply.
Private Lands
The greatest growth among land ownership categories in the Borough
has been privately held lands. Most of the lands selected by the Native
regional corporation, Koniag, and the village corporations have been
transferred for management or patented to the corporations. Over 750,000
acres of land have been transferred to these private corporations. This
amounts to about 17 percent of the total land mass of the Borough. Much
of this acreage, such as that on Afognak Island, was selected for timber
resources or other development potential. However, some of this acreage
was selected from within Wildlife Refuges and contains areas with high
habitat values for fish and wildlife. Over the past several years, money
from the Exxon Valdez Oil Spill settlement has allowed the federal government
to repurchase much of this land. The surface estate to former Wildlife
Refuge lands is subject to regulation to ensure its protection in a
manner that will not materially impair the values for which the refuge
was established and the subsurface estate (mineral rights) to such land
was retained by the federal government. Except for lands previously
part of a Wildlife Refuge, the subsurface estate of all Native lands
is owned by Koniag, Inc.